Thursday, February 3, 2011

Moving right along...

It’s been quite a while since I posted here. Our internet was permanently down after a 3-year old tripped into the satellite dish on the roof and broke a part. The internet is still down, but thanks to my Dad who did all the research, I was able to go to the Digicell headquarters (which is easily the biggest, fanciest building in Port-au-Prince, and the only one with an elevator, I’m told) and get a USB modem that gets us broadband wireless internet. Not super-fast, but so much more reliable.

This morning the government finally announced the long-awaited election results. This is what I wrote yesterday about waiting for them.
"Everybody is edgy and anxious. Rafael is walking around with his little radio glued to his ear. Rumors are flying around about what time the announcement will be made. 5pm. Noon. 9pm. Tomorrow. Never. So many questions! Is Preval trying to hold onto his power? Is Aristide coming? Why is Duvalier here? If Aristide comes, will everything derail? What if Preval says Celestin should be in the run-off and we’re back to square one and rioting? The total uncertainty is the most unnerving thing. Everyone knows that significant questions are being decided, but no one knows when or how things will be decided, so we are suspended in a sort of delicate limbo that could easily come crashing down into a messy, violent political confrontation. Up until yesterday, the political situation remained essentially the same as it was in mid-December, except with a mounting sense of pressure, because President Preval is constitutionally bound to name the candidates in the run-off election and set a date for those elections before Feb. 7th. If he does not do so, he will have effectively declared that he does not intend to step down as president, and the UN and OAS will no longer recognize him as legitimate president and will begin taking aggressive steps to remove him. This would be really really bad and everyone’s hoping it doesn’t come to that. So most people are hoping that he will follow the OAS recommendations on the outcome of the first-round elections, name Manigat and Martelly the two competitors for the run-off, and acknowledge that his hand-picked successor Celestin is out of the race"
Last night the power was out in half the city, so the streets were eerily quiet. No one wanted to be caught out on the street if the “wrong” results were announced and there were riots again. Still no announcement by 10 o’clock, so I went to bed, but stayed up for a long time listening to the faint sound of a radio playing somewhere down the street, jolting awake every time I heard the candidate’s names. This morning the announcement finally came. Around 7:30 am I heard the whole neighborhood reacting to something and I jumped up to look out the window. People listening to the radio on the corner passed the news up the hill and through the neighborhood. “Manigat and Martelly. Goodbye Celestin.” There were a few cheers, but mostly it seemed everyone (including me) just breathed a huge sigh of relief.

The kids are happy though. None of the teachers came in today because they were worried they might get stranded here if riots started after the announcement, so school got cancelled. It’s only fair, we don’t get snow days here, so they get ‘election results’ days instead. 


And now even though it’s already February (how did that happen? Time is going by so much faster than it ever did while I was in school!), I’ll go back and tell stories from Christmas break.

As soon as exams were over and the kids had a lot more time on their hands, they asked to braid my hair. So a full day of braiding later, I had purple, blonde, and black extensions braided into my own hair to make braids that hung down to my waist.




At first my head felt really weird and I freaked out every time I looked in the mirror, but after a few days I got used to it and realized that it was really nice not to have to brush/arrange my hair a zillion times a day. One of our janitors told me that I was Haitian now because I had Haitian hair (literally translated, “a Haitian head”). It actually got me quite a lot of street cred, if I may be allowed to use that phrase. Basically, people stopped assuming that I was a tourist, and I got a lot less off-color comments from guys on the street.

When Nate (the new intern) came in at the beginning of January, I went with our driver to go pick him up at the airport. This was a little daunting because the airport is a bit crazy and I had no idea what Nate looked like. But I shouldn’t have really worried. He knew I would be there to meet him, and I was the only white woman waiting in the pick-up area. In a random and over-zealous enforcement of immigration policy, the passport officers refused to let him through customs because he didn’t know the address of the place he would be staying in Haiti. (I should point out that street addresses in Port-au-Prince are a rather vague concept…anywhere else in the country they’re pretty much nonexistent, so this is really an absurd requirement). Anyways, he managed to explain to them that I was outside and would (hopefully) know the address they wanted. So they made him leave his bags and papers in the office, and then let him out a side door into the parking lot to find me. He and I then went backwards through the baggage claim, customs desks, and passport control with nobody even giving us a second glance. After I erased “Cecelia” from where the officer had written it on the address line of the immigration form, I wrote our address and the gruff officer stamped away at forms and passport with much gusto and very little attention to where exactly he was stamping, and we left the office. At this point I realized that I was on the wrong side of immigration and customs with no ID whatsoever. Not to worry, I simply shouldered one of Nate’s duffel bags, explained to the customs guy in an offhand manner, in Creole, that “He’s been through here already, and I’m with him” and we both got waved through without a thought. Not a very comforting representation of government security or control, I’ll admit, but I prefer to think of the whole thing as me busting a friend out of the immigration office with my awesome braids, passable Creole, and confident attitude. :-p

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Picture time!!

Since I'm home for two weeks, you get lots of pictures! Sorry for the lack of posts in the last month, the internet has been out at the orphanage for quite a while. 

Back in September we got to meet Michelle Martelly (Sweet Mickey) while he was campaigning in our neighborhood. The kids were all really excited to meet him because he's such a popular musician, but they unanimously agree they don't want him as president! Back in September we got to meet Michelle Martelly (Sweet Mickey) while he was campaigning in our neighborhood. The kids were all really excited to meet him because he's such a popular musician, but they unanimously agree they don't want him as president! 


We got invited to the wedding of one of the orphanage nannies. 


Getting ready for Christmas...the girls decorated me before the Christmas tree showed up.
Christmas Party









There are some big bugs in Haiti. This is about the size of my hand. I don't have pictures of the cockroaches because I'm usually too busy throwing shoes at them to get my camera.
Goats are pretty cute. 
This woman sells charcoal to the surrounding neighborhood. The dog and puppy live in/around/on/under her charcoal bags, and are very adorable. 
Pretty clouds over the city. 
Pretty clouds over the bay. 

Beautiful sunset from the roof of Dr. Bernard's house up in Thomasin

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Election Thoughts

Last night Haitian officials announced the results last week's presidential election. The three frontrunners are Mirlande Manigat (a Sorbonne-educated law professor and former senator, who would be the first female Haitian president), Jude Celestin (a businessman; the candidate of the current, very corrupt, administration; I haven't found a single person who actually supports him, so how he came out in second place is highly suspect), and Michelle Martelly (a very popular Haitian musician whose platform is almost entirely based on the popularity of his music). 3 guesses which one I'd like to see win? Ah, yes, the one who actually has an education and more than a vague shred of political experience. It's encouraging that in the first round she
(Manigat) was in the lead by 100%.

Monday, December 6, 2010

Sunday School

Note to self: when Haitians unexpectedly invite you to an event they are in any way involved with leading, you will probably be put on the spot for a speech/prayer/activity/something so THINK FAST.

So yesterday, Sunday, the older girls invited me to come back to the church with them in the afternoon. They said that they help lead a little kids sunday school class, and they thought I might like to come play with kids. Awesome! I was super-excited for several reason. 1. It's taken a lot longer to establish relationships with the older girls, so I was encouraged to see them reaching out to me. 2 I really like playing with kids. 3. I jump at any chance to get outside the orphanage walls and walk around.

Everything was going great, I was really enjoying watching the girls work together to wrangle a group of forty 8-15-year old kids into some semblance of order. The class met in an open area on the top floor of the church with an incredible view of the whole Port-au-Prince bay shining in the warm yellow light before sunset. The kids sang worship songs, memorized a bible verse, and were just starting to sing some more when Stephanie plops down beside me and says, "Okay, so what game are you going to play with the kids?"

My train of thought - First: "I should have seen this coming", then - "Duck duck goose! Wait, no, that's a terrible idea, there are way too many kids, and I don't know either 'duck' or 'goose' in Creole. Why can't I think of any other games???" After scrambling for a minute I remembered that Simon Says had recently been a huge hit in my English classes (thank you Katie times a gazillion). I quickly explained the game to Stephanie so she could help me explain it to the kids. She didn't understand what "Simon says" meant, so I said, "It's just a name, it could be Stephanie says, or Cecelia says, it doesn't matter." At that her eyes lit up with undertsanding and she proceeded to explain that the game we were going to play is called "Cecelia Di", explained the rules, and handed me a microphone. What followed was the most energetic and competitive game of Simon Says I have ever seen. So even though it was not remotely related to their bible verse for the day or anything like that, I'm going to go ahead and call it a success. And they invited me to come back again next week; which I plan to do, armed with an activity prepared in advance this time!

Our christmas tree beats your christmas tree...

...Why? Does your Christmas tree have balloons on it? Or a penguin? Umm...didn't think so.
 
So the weather is beautiful here, with temperatures in the 80's every day and usually a nice breeze. This makes it a little hard to remember that it's winter and snowing back home. It's also strange to be singing advent carols at church and making plans for Christmas celebrations in this weather!
 
Last night I was up on the roof after dark and discovered to my delight that people put up Christmas lights in Haiti too! I guess I had assumed that was an American/European thing, but nope, even in third world slums people hang up a variety of spazzy, blinking, colorful lights at Christmas. (How exactly this relates to the birth of Christ, I have yet to figure out.) Also the girls have told me that people set off fireworks all over the city at midnight on both Christmas Eve and New Year's Eve, so I'm super-excited for that.
 
Today the girls dug up a fake Christmas tree, from who knows where. This thing has definitely seen better days. It's like the Charlie Brown christmas tree. But, undaunted, we raided the craft shelves in the library for everything and anything that was red or green or remotely ornament-like. Several packets of water balloons were blown up and hung on the branches as ornaments. Larger balloons were placed strategically to disguise structural problems and make it stand up straight. We made red and green paper chains. Red and gold tinsel appeared. Someone collected a bunch of beanie-babies and artfully arranged them around the bottom, except for the penguin who holds a place of honor nestled among the lower branches. The whole time the girls sang Haitian christmas songs (which are way more lively than English ones), and when they declared the tree finished they started a rousing chorus of "Oh Christmas Tree" in French. Except they had the usual problem of not remembering any of the words after "oh christmas tree", but they just made up some verses of their own. Guess some things are pretty consistent in any language. :p 
 
I don't think I have ever had more fun decorating a tree (and I LOVE decorating christmas trees). I'm gonna go ahead and claim that we have the best Christmas tree outside of Swizterland this year (gotta give credit to the Swiss, they take their christmas trees very seriously).
 
Tomorrow I think I'm gonna try to make an angel for the top. Wish me luck!